Dakar | 2025

Chapter 1: Arrival in Germany

Friday, 29 August, 2025
Day 1 of the trip to Dakar is in the books. Job 1 was to get over the jetlag (I'm working on it) and Job 2 was to get the bike running after being in storage for a year (thanks Willi and Helena for the use of your garage!). After I installed a new GPS and tankbag, the bike started immediately. Only bummer is that the right turn signal button didn’t fix itself while it was parked. Tried disassembling it and spraying liberally with contact cleaner but no joy. Might need to buy a new switch cluster or just do hand signals for right turns. Then I met with my friend Alex Lübbe-Sloan and managed to spend three hours laughing and telling stories over cappuccinos and pastries. (You just knew my first stop would be at a bakery, didn’t you?)

The bike has been on the trickle charger since last year


Installed the GPS from the R1250GSA and a new tankbag


It looks ready to try to start it



Will the bike start?

Reset the GPS. Pro tip: Always reset the max. speed field after riding in Germany


First ride, out past Schloss Kronwinkl




The turn signal switch was giving a little trouble last year but quit working altogether now


Meet Alex at a local bakery for fun conversation

Saturday, 30 August to Tuesday, 2 September

During my stay at Helena and Willi’s I helped with the apple harvest (99 litres of juice!) and did some work on the bike. At Zierer on Saturday, an hour before closing time, I ordered a new turn signal switch. BMW didn’t do deliveries on Monday, so I was a little surprised when we got a call on Tuesday morning that the switch had arrived. Essentially overnight for a part for an 18 year-old motorcycle is pretty amazing. Installing the new switch was easy and fixed the problem. I also noticed that the horn wasn’t working and traced that to loose wires at the relay. Now the bike is ready for Africa! I had contacted Tom und Andrea (Blue Knights whom we befriended in 2007 when I broke my knee) and arranged to meet them. We met at a bier garten in Freising (where I had my knee surgery) and chatted for a couple of hours. They mentioned that the Blue Knights International convention is in Calgary next year. I hope they decide to come!

Taking the apples harvested from the tree in the front yard to the juicer


11 3 litre bags for 99 litres of freshly squeezed apple juice


Ordered the new turn signal switch (Kombischalter heizgriff rechts)


Stopped by the guesthouse where we stayed for 4 months in 2007


Meeting at a bier garten in Freising


Going for a short ride with Tom and Andrea


Next time we meet might be in Calgary in 2026

Wednesday to Sunday, 3-7 September 2025

After visiting Helena’s new workplace, right in Kronwinkl, on Wednesday morning I saddled up and hit the road north on the way to Bielefeld to visit Inge und Peter on 3 September. I’ve always enjoyed riding the German back roads and today was no exception. Until I got to the busy traffic of Ingolstadt where an Audi tried to take my lane anyway. At least I had the opportunity to use my newly functional horn. My hotel in Würzburg was about five kilometres from the old town and that turned out to be a great walk. On the left bank of the River Main, next to a canal lock, I found the Goldene Gans bier garten. For some reason I ordered the XL sausages with sauerkraut. Whoa, that was a lot. Better make a mental note that German portions are more than adequate. Then a walk around the old town after picking up an ice cream at a grocery store (the lineup at the gelato stand was too long) showed Würzburg to be a lovely town. Leaving downtown I crossed back over the Main just as a Viking river cruise boat was going through the locks. I took a time lapse video and then walked home, up the five kilometres through a dark park. That may not have been the most security conscious decision, but it all turned out OK.

Departure from Helena and Willi's house


First, a stop at Schloss Kronwinkl


Bye Kronwinkl, see you in 2027


Riding north through the fields of hops


I truly love these German country roads




Time for a break?


Yum!


The architecture changes as I head north


Arrival in Würzburg 




Walk down to the Main and find the Goldene Gans bier garten


OK, who ordered the XL sausages?


The old bridge over the Main is pedestrian only now









The old town of Würzburg 







Time lapse video of a river cruise boat in the locks
 

On Thursday morning I enjoyed the €13.50 buffet breakfast at the hotel, but I might have to rethink this. It seems that hotel breakfasts are not included by default anymore, there is usually a charge. Perhaps I’ll do what I did in New Zealand (where motels often didn’t even have the option of breakfast) and pick up granola and milk powder for an inexpensive start to the day. I stopped off at SW Motech to see if they had a spare screw for my tankbag mount. They did, and there was no charge. At Blackfoot in Calgary (where I bought the tankbag) they indicated the screw wasn’t available from SW Motech so I should go to a fastener store to get one. That’s when I thought I should just drop by their headquarters in Germany. I’m glad that worked out OK. I stuck to smaller country roads until Paderbron where there was heavy traffic, and not much fun riding so took the autobahn for the last 30 kilometres to Bielefeld. Peter und Inge warmly welcomed me and showed me to my room for next few days.

Heading north through wine country







Yes, the architecture is changing yet again.

Inge was working on Friday, so Peter and I headed off on electric bicycles (Peter had just bought a new one so I could use his old one) for a 54-kilometre round trip to Borgholzhausen for ice cream. That evening we met Inge after work at an archery club where I was able to try the sport. I am happy to say that I didn’t impale anyone. I was rewarded for this success with a BBQ. Saturday was a motorcycle day. The three of us rode out to the PS Speicher museum in Einbeck. Lots of cool motorcycles and cars on display but my favourite was the Megola with its five-cylinder engine inside the front wheel. Since the engine is attached directly to the wheel there is no clutch so starting and stopping are a bit of a challenge. The manufacturer suggested planning trips to avoid stops. We left the museum at about 5:30 and then took smaller roads (including a gravel section!) to Höxter for supper. They asked what I would like to have, German or Italian food? I said, Thai! Of course, that was pretty funny to be in a traditional German town and ask for Thai food. Unbelievably, around the corner was a Thai/Indian restaurant! I swear I didn’t see it beforehand! I’m glad Peter was leading back to Bielefeld after a delicious supper as it’s always a bit of a challenge riding an unfamiliar road in the dark. Sunday it was another eBike ride followed by archery. The three of us rode about 70 kilometres return to Lemgo. On the way out of Bielefeld we stopped off at the cemetery to visit Inge’s mom and Peter’s brother. Also, the graves of the Dr. Oetker family are here since Bielefeld is the home of Dr. Oetker. Lemgo is another lovely town, perhaps most famous for its witch hunting heritage, including the hexenbürgermeisterhaus. Back home, we drove to the archery range where I finally managed to have my entire quiver of arrows hit the target, not one went astray. Naturally I quit then, at the top of my game. Sunday evening was the total lunar eclipse (it started just before the moon rose) so we ordered a “blood moon pizza”. Obviously. Unfortunately, clouds meant that we didn’t actually see the blood moon. Pizza was good though.

Peter and I go for an eBike ride


To reach the high point of our ride we had to climb this tower


I am not a big fan of heights so quite proud of myself for having made it up


Definitely deserving of an ice cream treat


Passing by a wasserschloss on the way back to Bielefeld


Trying my hand at archery


Saturday the three of us go for a nice motorbike ride to Einbeck





Peter knows all the smallest roads


The parking lot of the PS Speicher museum is already interesting


Well, this is awkward

A most interesting motorcycle, the Megola with the engine part of the front wheel

 

How the Megola operates

 

Riding the Megola

 

Sweet Katana

Inge checks out the Trabant


No, really? There is a Thai restaurant in a historic German town?


Everyone is excited to be having Thai (or Indian) food


Stroll around town after dinner


Sunday, time for another eBike ride




The witch hunter mayor's house is a museum now





Sunday evening archery again


All of my arrows land on the target!


The full lunar eclipse (the blood moon) is behind the clouds

Tracks for the start of the trip: from Kronwinkl to Bielefeld and the daytrip out to Einbeck (not the eBike trips though!)

Chapter 2: Bielefeld to Andermatt

Chapter 2: Turning South - To Dakar! Bielefeld to Andermatt

Monday 8 September to 10 September: Heading south to Dakar!

n Monday the trip officially started as I turned south. I left Peter und Inge in Bielefeld after a fun weekend with them. On the way south I passed by Burg Frankenstein. Yes, that Frankenstein. So had to do a quick stop to check out the ruins.  Then I met up with Sherri Jo, whom Audrey and I had met in 2011 at the Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travel event in Nakusp while she was on her Round The World trip. We chatted for hours getting caught up with each other before I headed to Heppenheim for the night. Then it was a couple of days riding to Andermatt in Switzerland for one of my favourite passes, the San Gottardo. I am staying outside of the hideously expensive Andermatt  in Sedrun.

Until next time Inge und Peter!


Stopping off at Frankenstein Castle


Schloss Frankenstein


Great to meet up with fellow world traveller Sherri Jo!


The Achat Hotel in Heppenheim


Wet start to the day in Heppenheim


Riding into the Black Forest


OK, not the classic German bakery I had hoped for but a bakery in the Black Forest gotta be good!


No Schwartzwalder Kirsch Torte today


OK, that's delicious. I'm glad they didn't scrimp on the cream.


More Black Forest riding after my Black Forest treat


Entering Switzerland


Hey, roundabouts can be fun!


OK, to the Gotthard!


Heading up to the pass


Along the lake


Oh good, all the passes are open


I am on the old highway while the new highway bores through




Welcome to Uri


I love this old bridge! (Roman?)


The Devil's Bridge. The original wooden bridge made the Gotthard Pass and actual pass.





Scene of epic battles


When in Andermatt I always stop at this bakery


I saw this Scottish couple checking out the bike. He was surprised to see an Alberta licence plate here. He used to work in Calgary!


Ah yes, this is why I am here


The Old Gotthard Pass Road, the Tremola


This should be fun!





The summit


Back through Andermatt to get to the Oberalp Pass


Climbing the Oberalp Pass out of Andermatt




Goodnight from Sedrun

 

Video of the ride on the Old Gotthard Road (Tremola)

 

GPS tracks of the ride from Bielefeld to Andermatt

 

Chapter 3: Andermatt to Tarragona

Chapter 3: Andermatt to Tarragona - Across France

Thursday 11 September to 13 September: Andermatt to Grenoble.

The journey continues toward Dakar. From Andermatt I took a couple of my favourite passes (the Furka and Grimsel) in the direction of Chamonix. The low oil level indicator had come on the previous day so I stopped at a motorcycle shop in Brig for a litre of oil. Wow, CHF22 is about $40 for a litre of oil. From Chamonix it was another nice ride to Grenoble where I stayed a couple of nights so I could do a day trip out to Gorges du Nan. Gorges du Nan and Combe Laval are roads carved out of the side of the cliff. Spectacular! Make sure to check out the video below.

Going over the Oberalp Pass, back to Andermatt


Good morning Andermatt!


Taking the Furka instead of the Gotthard out of town this time


Who wagers... Loses


Headwaters of the Rhone River is here at the Rhone Glacier


Coming down the Furka Pass while looking across the valley to the Grimsel Pass going up


Following a local Harley club


Well that's an, umm, interesting bike


Looking back up the Furka to the Rhone Glacier


Top of the Grimsel


I always go here for a cappuccino (first time in 2002 with Audrey we got passed by a Buell on the way up and I think he was on his second cappuccino)


Getting a litre of milk is always more interesting if you take the McLaren


Good, all these passes are open too


Approaching Mont Blanc in France (having left Switzerland)


Going through spa towns


Stopped in Albertville (winter Olympics) for a cappuccino


Nice riding towards Chamonix





Small French villages


Small French roads


Walk into downtown Grenoble for supper


Ham and cheese Galette for supper


Lively downtown Grenoble


The daytrip out of Grenoble doesn't go as planned with a landslide blocking the road


I don't want to backtrack 8 kilometres to the expressway, let's see what we can do...


OK, I have to cut through some fields and orchards but...


Ha ha! Could squeeze by this barrier and I made it!


Alright, let's go to Gorges du Nan


Wow, wow, wow


Make sure to check out the video below




Pont-en-Royans has homes built right into the cliff walls of the gorge








Rain in the afternoon didn't dampen my spirits on this great day


Heading back to Grenoble

 

Video of the ride through Gorges du Nan

Sunday 14 September to 15 September: Grenoble to Avignon.

After muesli I packed the bike (sheepskin still wet from yesterday) and rode out to the highway. Going this direction and circling Grenoble was sure easier than going through town. Toll free highway is easy riding. Turned up into the hills and much more fun. Lots of motorcycles, some pretty big groups. Like 30 bikes. Col de Menée is very nice. Then entered a wine growing region that looked a lot like Tuscany with fancy estates and castles. Stopped in Nyons for lunch and gas. Beautiful Roman bridge when I entered. Lots of “Romain” names for villages all through the region. Lots of motorcycles parked downtown and I joined them. Walked to one of the many restaurants for lunch. I don’t think it is possible to have a simple lunch in France. The salmon daily special was finished so I had the warm Camembert cheese with a salad. Quite tasty though. If I want simple, I guess I need a grocery store. Hit a gas station leaving Nyons and then rode the last 100 kilometres to Avignon, arriving at 4:00. After doing the daily laundry I walked to the Palais de Papes and Pont du Avignon. Beautiful old town (my hotel is right outside the city wall so nice for walking into town). Ham and cheese sandwich with an orange juice for supper sitting right on the square. The same atmosphere as the fancy restaurants and their fancy meals and their fancy prices. Monday was a video editing day as I worked on the Insta360 videos I made of the Gotthard and Gorges du Nan. I did pop by an ATM to take out 300 euro in case ATMs aren’t readily available in Morocco and Mauritania (to pay for the Mauritanian eVisa). The machine offered to convert it to Canadian dollars for me, charging me $550 for the €300. I declined and when I got back to the hotel, I checked my CIBC account and my bank only charged me $500. Way to save 50 bucks!

Leaving Grenoble, back into the mountains with the gorges


Forget the toll autoroute


Fabulous riding


Lots of motorcycles on this road today


How do you say you are riding in France without saying you are riding in France?







Where there are passes there are fortresses


The 2,000 year old Roman bridge in Nyons


You can't just get a simple sandwich for lunch


In wine country you'll have winery estates (reminded me of the estates in Tuscany)


View from my hotel in Avignon, just outside the city walls


Going for a walk in the old town




Hello!


Palais de Papes was home to the pope from 1309 to 1377 during a time of instability in Rome




Good night Avignon

 

Tuesday 16 September to 17 September: Avignon to Tarragona. 

Wow there are some amazing people in this world. From Avignon I rode to Nîmes, specifically Moto Sport Nîmes, passing by one of my favourite Roman engineering projects, Pont du Gard. In 2003 my R100GS broke down and the team at Moto Sport Nîmes repaired it. So, since I was on the hunt for tires, I thought I would check with them. They didn’t have anything in my size and I was about to leave when Vincent and Pascale stopped to chat. They were really interested in my story of travelling the world and asked if they could take me to lunch. What lovely people, we drove in their car to a fancy restaurant where an incredible French buffet was laid out. And a dessert table to die for… We chatted for an hour or two and returned to the shop so Vincent could pick up his R12 G/S after its first service. They gave me their phone number and address in case I needed anything. Nice. Then I rode to Narbonne, arriving at 5:30 PM, where they did have tires in my size and could mount them right away. Perfect. During their routine inspection they found a couple of suspension items that should be replaced at the next service. They were just closing at 7:00 PM so I popped back the next morning to ask if they could do the work now, before I headed for Dakar (and the rough, sandy roads I expect to encounter). But ordering the parts and their schedule meant that it wouldn’t be done for 10 days. Yikes, I want to be in Morocco by then. So I rode across the border to Barcelona in Spain where I thought the huge shop might be able to do the work faster. I arrived at 1:00, just as the parts counter was rolling down their shutter for the 2 hour lunch break. My pleading fell on deaf ears and the parts guy just told me to come back at 3:00 and slammed the shutter down. Sitting in the showroom I thought I should see if there are any hotels nearby. There were, but nothing under $200, and most far more. Hotels were much less expensive 2 hours down the road in Tarragona, so at about the same time as the Barcelona shop was reopening I was at Oliva BMW in Tarragona. They took my email address and said they would let me know the estimated cost and time. Off to the beachside resort of Cap de Salou and its relatively inexpensive all-inclusive resorts to await word of the repair estimate.

Good morning Avignon!


Riding  by the Pont du Avignon


Ah yes, Pont du Gard


Beautiful engineering


I wonder where the next race is?


The last time I was at Moto Sport Nîmes my bike arrived in a van with a broken driveshaft in 2003


No tires available at Moto Sport Nîmes but I met Pascale and Vincent who invited me to lunch


Vincent was there to pick up his R12 G/S after its first service


After lunch it is on to Narbonne to see if they have tires


New shoes! Yes, they had tires in Narbonne. But they also listed a few items that should be looked at like the Telelever ball joint and wheel bearings.


Moto Sud in Narbonne couldn't do the Telelever repair for 10 days so I ride to Barcelona 


The enormous Barcelona facility (both cars and bikes) closed at exactly 1:00 PM. I was told to wait until 3:00.


I decided not to wait until 3:00. Instead I rode for two hours to Tarragona where they will check to see when they can do it. Check into a nice resort on the Med.

 

GPS tracks for the ride from Andermatt to Tarragona

Chapter 4: Tarragona to Algeciras

Chapter 4: Tarragona to Algeciras - Spain

Thursday 18 September: Tarragona to Zaragoza

Well, no joy at Oliva BMW in Tarragona. While they were able to get the part in 10 days (just like in Narbonne) they weren’t able to squeeze me into their schedule until 13 October. OK, this running from shop to shop needs to stop. I am going to take four days to ride to Seville and figure out something there. First stop, Zaragoza. I headed up into the hills, crossing a couple of low passes. Because I left the BMW shop at noon, it was a hot afternoon of riding. I saw 37° on a drugstore sign but the highest I saw on the bike was 35°. Lots of interesting villages along the way, crossed the Greenwich Meridian and passed by Motorland Aragon, home of some epic MotoGP battles. Audrey and I had visited Zaragoza in 2003 and it was fun walking through the lively old town in the evening, remembering the sights, like the globe and the statue of Ceasar Augustus. The name Zaragoza originates from the Roman name Caesaraugusta, given to the city by Emperor Augustus in the 1st century AD. This Latin name evolved into the Arabic form Saraqusṭa during the Moorish period and then became the Spanish Zaragoza after the Reconquista.

Leaving the coast at Tarragona and riding up into the hills


Vineyards spread out in the valleys




One could see the cathedral of Corbera from kilometres away


Ruins of the old castle on the hill of Corbera still visible


Crossing the Prime Meridian


Raising a toast to the crossing


Riding through Alcañiz


I didn't know Motorland Aragon was out here


Looks like the middle of nowhere (though the residents of Alcañiz might disagree) with no major population centres nearby


Catedral-Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in the heart of Zaragoza


It almost feels bigger on the inside 








Foundations from Roman times


An evening stroll in Zaragoza


I swear that everywhere in Spain someone opens all the doors at exactly 8:00 PM and everyone goes outside


The globe I remember from our 2003 visit


Yes, the original photo from 2003

Friday 19 September to 21 September: Zaragoza to Seville

I had a great, though hot, three days of riding from Zaragoza to Seville. Leaving Zaragoza I took the divided highway (Autovía) for an hour or so before turning off onto the smaller highways. The smaller roads were reward enough but as a bonus came by the ruins of a castle and then passed through (literally through, as in a tunnel) Albarracin. The original plan had been to stay overnight in Cuenca but the hotel prices were quite high there, so I just stopped for lunch. As I had climbed up to Ventano del Diablo in full motorcycle gear and it was in the high 30s I decided to seek respite from the heat in an air-conditioned McDonalds. In the afternoon I rode another 150 km to Villarrobledo. I loved this small town without any tourists. And like most towns in Spain, it really came alive after 8:00 PM. It really feels like someone opened all the doors at 8:00. What fun it was having supper on the main square with children running wild and free. On the hot ride to Córdoba the next day I stumbled across some ruins in the middle of a vineyard. Turns out they were Ruinas de la Iglesia de la Virgen de la Caridad. How neat to just happen across these! Arriving in Córdoba I picked up some supplies at a grocery store behind the hotel. By 7:00 it had cooled off to 33C, so after a light supper (sushi from the grocery store) I walked into the old town. Just as I looked into the Mezquita de Córdoba I saw a crowd of people in the square and a band started up. Then, a processional float came out of the Mosque-Cathedral. Wow, how lucky am I to happen upon this event? This was similar to the Semana Santa processional floats but obviously it wasn’t Easter week being September. I was able to get closer to another float later in the evening and could see the feet of the people carrying the float. Wow. The next morning, I walked over to the Mosque-Cathedral and visited the interior. The mosque was constructed in 785 and then converted to a cathedral in 1236 when Córdoba was captured by the Christian forces of Castile during the Reconquista. Today, the building continues to serve as the city's cathedral and Mass is celebrated there daily. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and serves as an important monument to Islamic architecture. The interior was a fascinating mix of Islamic and Christian architecture, I especially liked the "infinity" of arches. I got back to the hotel just in time for my 12:00 o'clock checkout. Again, I tried to stay off the Autovía as much as possible and was rewarded by interesting sights along the way. One really surprised me when I came around a corner and saw an almost Disney-like castle on a hill above the town. Castillo de Almodóvar dates back to the 8th century and looks like it would be a lot of fun to explore. I arrived in Seville on Sunday afternoon with plans to pop by BMW Boxer Motorrad first thing Monday morning to see if they're able to service the bike.

Wide open spaces leaving Zaragoza




Castillo de Santa Croche


Passing "through" the town of Albarracin




Is it me or does the rest area sign look like someone sitting on a toilet? I'm usually disappointed when I don't see a toilet in the rest area.


Not much cooler higher up




Hmm, what do the Spanish think of Canadians?


The climb up to the Devil's Window is on the left


Yes, it is 37C and I am hot in my motorcycle gear


Ah, blessed air conditioning!


Wow, lots of sunflower fields. What this must look like when they're in bloom!


El Torro!


The main square in Villarrobledo comes alive in the evening


Hey, nachos are traditional Spanish food right?




Ruinas de la Iglesia de la Virgen de la Caridad


Others out for a Saturday ride (probably working off their nachos)


Crossing into the province of Córdoba and the houses are all white


Crossing the Roman bridge into the old town of Córdoba (for 2,000 years this was the only bridge)


Peeking into the square in front of the Mosque-Cathedral there is a crowd and a band


Just then the band strikes up and a processional float emerges from the main entrance to the mosque-cathedral


The minaret/bell tower after the crowds have left the Orange Garden, following the procession

 

The procession has left the Mosque-Cathedral and is going down the adjacent street

 

Later in the evening another float but now you can see the feet of the carriers

Sunday morning crossing the Roman Bridge to the Mosque-Cathedral

 

Monday 22 September to 24 September: Seville (and Ronda)

I have a new motorbike! And as a bonus it already has a Dakar sticker, so I don’t need to bother making the long, arduous trek down there. OK, there is a long, convoluted story here so buckle up. If you aren’t interested in the story you may want to check out the photos at the end of the post. The Puente Nuevo in Ronda is stunning. OK, deep breath. You'll recall that I went to Boxer Motorrad in Seville to have suspension work done (recommended by the shop that changed the tires) first thing Monday morning. Other shops I had visited had given dates ranging from 27 September to 13 October to do the work so I was pleasantly surprised when they said they could do it the next day. I came back Tuesday morning and they said it should be done by 1:00 PM. So, I booked a hotel in Ronda, only a 1.5 hour ride away, figuring that even if it took all day I would still arrive before sunset at 8:00 PM. At 3:00 the mechanic pulled me into the shop and showed me the driveshaft. One of the U-joints was almost completely seized and would likely fail before I got to Dakar. They could fix it but it would be mañana. Unfortunately, the hotel in Ronda was nonrefundable so I had to eat the cost and the price of the hotel in Seville had gone up $100 from last night. Ouch, that’s an expensive night, paying for two hotels. Lesson learned, I didn’t book a hotel until after I picked up the repaired bike on Wednesday. Finally on my way to Ronda I thought the steering was quite stiff, resulting in a bit of a weave like the steering head bearings were too tight (the gyroscopic effect of the wheels couldn’t self-centre the bike). I thought it will loosen up as I ride, but when I got to the autovía it was actually rather frightening, weaving with crosswinds and going around corners. After pulling over and not finding anything wrong (loose bolts, flat tires) I turned around, back to Boxer Motorrad. It was diagnosed that the new Telelever ball joint was faulty, with too much friction. We can fix it. Mañana. Again, having booked a nonrefundable hotel I approached the service manager and asked for a loaner to ride to Ronda. He said, yes! They found an F900GS Adventure, did a quick service on it and sent me on my way. I am so glad I was able to see the famous Puente Nuevo and also happy not to be paying for two hotels tonight.

Sunday evening stroll into Seville






Puente del Alamillo (behind Puente de la Barqueta) was built for Expo92 and designed by Santiago Calatrava (same designer as Calgary's Peace Bridge)




Setas de Sevilla is a wooden sculpture/structure with an archeological museum and shops


Maybe I am more lost than I think I am


Monday morning


Good sign (literally)


Encouraging showroom


Victor (my service rep) suggested going to a local restaurant specializing in ham


Thinly sliced ham on toast and freshly squeezed orange juice for a nice lunch


Mechanic Fernando inspects the driveshaft


The top U-joint is close to being completely seized


Uber to a nearby hotel is a BYD Seal


My new bike is a BMW F900GS Adventure


Well, its already got the Dakar sticker so I guess I don't need to go all the way down after all


Riding south towards Ronda






Pretty happy


The cockpit is identical to my 1250 at home, even my GPS just clipped in




Lively pedestrian mall in Ronda


Going for a walk at sunset


The Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) was completed in 1793 after 34 years of construction


Walking down to a viewpoint with a great view of Puente Nuevo


Wow, just wow


The chamber above the central arch was used as a prison


Walked back up from the viewpoint and through town


Puente Nuevo at night


This architecture is so familiar. Travelling through Central and South America a lot of churches have similar architecture

 

Thursday 25 September - Ronda to Seville to Algeciras

Thursday morning, I packed up my F900GSA loaner bike to ride back to Seville. On the way north I saw a castle that I had missed the day before, so I had to go investigate. Castillo de las Aguzaderas is part of a chain of fortresses known as the Moorish Strip built in this location to protect an important water source. That’s why it’s rather unique, being in a valley rather on an easily defended hill top. The bike wasn't ready when I got to Boxer Motorrad, so I walked over to the coffee shop at the enormous Yamaha store. I heard the sound of a BMW going by and looked up from my cappuccino to see Fernando, the mechanic, riding my bike! Sweet. Fernando absolutely insisted that I take it for a test ride before leaving. The steering was still a little stiffer than before but OK and Fernando said it would loosen up in a few kilometres. Now I could safely book a hotel in Algeciras. I said goodbye to Victor, the super helpful and friendly service representative, and got on the road. It was an easy and uneventful ride to the port city and after I checked into the grand Hotel Reina Cristina I booked my ferry ticket to Morocco for the next day.

Good morning! Riding out of Ronda.


Well, what's this then?




Let's go down and investigate




Castillo de las Aguzaderas has foundations from the 14th century but was heavily modified in the 15th and 16th centuries


The fortress was built in a hollow to protect a valuable water source


Waiting for the bike at the nearby Yamaha shop's cafe (cappuccino, chocolate croissant and Top Gear magazine)


Fernando gives the official OK now, the bike is ready!


Super helpful and friendly Victor (I'm wearing my new Boxer Motorrad T-shirt)


The only thing I had to pay attention to was the hard headwind


El Torro!


Checking in


Wow, that's a bit more grand than I was expecting


Lined up for the ferry to Morocco on Friday morning


Let's go!


Bye to the Rock of Gibraltar and Europe, see you in November

GPS tracks for the ride from Tarragona to Algeciras

Chapter 5: Morocco

Friday 26 September Algeciras to Chefchaouen

To Morocco! It was an uneventful crossing of the Straits of Gibraltar to Tangier Med on Friday. Passport control was done right on the ship so only the customs inspection needed to be done when we landed. I was first off the boat and rode about a kilometre to the empty customs booths. An official looked at the map on my saddlebag and said something about a problem. He called someone else over who said I have to remove the map. What? The map with my GPS tracks showed a dotted line in Morocco for the Western Sahara, or as the official called it, Moroccan Sahara. Ah. I started to peel it off but then he said if I had a knife, I could just cut away the offending portion. I did have a knife with me so cut Morocco out and that seemed to satisfy him. Leaving the port, I was on a divided highway for about 3 kilometres when the GPS turned me off at a small village and then onto a dirt road through town, just as people were leaving Friday prayers. After dodging worshippers, I came to a tiny, but paved, road that went straight up into mountains. This was fantastic riding and exactly what I had been dreaming of when I thought of riding in Morocco. 20 kilometres later I turned right onto a larger road (it had a line down the middle) that eventually took me to Chefchaouen and the Taj Chefchaouen Luxury Hotel & Spa. This new hotel was built just inside the old city wall, high on a cliff with the most spectacular views of “the Blue City”. At the front desk I was treated like a celebrity and the clerk said I am famous. “You are from Calgary on the motorcycle!” Apparently, they had Googled me when they saw the reservation. After a tour of the hotel, I quickly determined I needed to stay another night. I may not make it to Dakar.

Goodbye Europe!


Let's just cut out Morocco then


When inspecting the luggage they discovered another map inside the saddlebag


Yep, cut out Morocco too


3 kilometres of divided highway and then turn off at Ksar Sghir and into the hills


Love these roads (and getting passed by a guy in flowing robes on a 125)


Looking back across the Strait to Spain




Looking pretty happy


Turn right




Small town Morocco




Arrive at the Taj Chefchaouen - Luxury Hotel & Spa with an amazing view


Getting help with my luggage

The view from my room is spectacular

Moroccan mint tea on the rooftop terrace


Goodnight Chefchaouen

Saturday 27 September

Exploring the Blue City of Chefchaouen, Morocco.

Entering through the Bab El-Mahouk Gate


The price for having a hotel with a spectacular view is lots and lots of climbing














The Taj Chefchaouen hotel is the large building at the very top

Yes, more climbing


The most popular sunset spot in town








Goodnight Chefchaouen

Sunday 28 September - Chefchaouen to Meknes

It was a relatively short ride from Chefchaouen to Meknes on Sunday. But I took smaller back roads, so it took the whole day. Fairly cool and cloudy for most of the day and a bit of rain thrown in for good measure. It was fun to be riding away from the tourist areas where the young boys' eyes light up when they see the bike coming and come running out to the street. I had booked a riad that seems to have been built right into the city wall in the imperial city of Meknes. In the evening, I took a walk around town, to the main square and into the bewildering array of tiny passageways in the medina. It’s fun getting lost and finding your way out again.

Cool enough to zip up the vents


Goodbye to the Blue City






It's always best to get a little wet before putting on the raingear


Now is the perfect time




The pavement is barely one lane wide


Sometimes it's a game of chicken of who pulls onto the gravel and who stays on the pavement








Mouley Idriss Zehoun is built on a hill near the Roman ruins of Volubulis



Entering the gates of Meknes, the Imperial City


Riad Yacout seems to be part of the city wall


Interior is beautiful


Exploring Meknes




The shopping streets outside of the medina proper are bustling


Goodnight from the Imperial City of Meknes

Monday 29 to 30 September – Meknes to Dadès Gorge

It was only a 2.5 hour ride from Meknes the Dar Zayane hotel outside of the town of Khenifra on Monday so I had a late start and took my time. I am sure a hotel out of town would be nice if you were on vacation and wanted to relax but for me it was just a bit boring as I like to go for a walk around town at supper time. Fortunately, I had stopped for lunch at the Hug Cafe and had a Nutella a crepe so got a bit of people watching in anyway. The Hug Cafe had it nailed down for the Nutella crepe as there was so much Nutella you couldn’t see the crepe. Perfect. Tuesday I rode towards the Todra Gorge via Imilchill in the High Atlas Mountains, topping out at Col de Tizi Tigherrhouzine at 2645m. Even Imilchill was at about 2,000 metres and I really enjoyed the ride with its sweeping corners. Then a steady down, culminating in the Todra Gorge. This gorge is really narrow, reminding me of the canyon coming out of Radium on Highway 93 in B.C. It would be really neat if it wasn’t crowded with souvenir sellers and tourists walking in the middle of the road but alas that wasn’t the case. It was another 100 km to my hotel at the base of the Dadès Gorge. There were lots of motorbikes today, even a group of Harley Davidson riders with Eagle Rider. I think I saw the same group of about 8 fancy adventure touring bikes (no luggage) twice. I suspect they were doing the Todra and Dadès gorges loop in a counterclockwise direction from a base in Dadès while I was going clockwise. I took a short trip up the famous switchbacks of the Dadès Gorge before backtracking to the hotel. I will take the Insta360 tomorrow morning to do some video. The host at the Maison d’Hote Argana was very friendly and welcoming. We sat out on the balcony with tea and cookies while filling in the appropriate paperwork before he showed me to my room with its own balcony overlooking the garden and Dadès River. A day of gorgeous gorges.

Leaving through the gates that are part of the wall where the riad is located






This should be fun then! Note, this was a one-way road but I didn't trust it like the car in front of me. I kept to the right.


Who needs a hug?


Who needs a Nutella crepe?


The Dar Zayane is a quiet hotel in the countryside




Moroccan hill town




I love these random fortresses (or kasbah)


Some are more worn away than others


Ruins of the kasbah


The highest I've been on the trip


Down through wide sweeping curves to Imilchill






Just a random kasbah


Going down towards the Todra Gorge


Entrance to the Todra Gorge


Souvenir sellers and tourists walking in the middle of the road


It's only a few hundred metres long


The gates of another province


Well, at least their 4x4 overlanding truck is clearly labelled


A kasbah on the Dadès River


Home for the night, just a few kilometres from the Dadès Gorge


My host pours the tea while we fill in the paperwork

Wednesday 1 October - Dadès Gorge to Ouarzazate

With only 4 switchbacks (compared to the Stelvio's 48 for example) the Dadès Gorge isn’t quite as challenging but it was a fun ride after pausing for a Moroccan tea at the top. Then down the Dadès River valley in the direction of Ouarzazate. Google maps suggested a parallel route through the desert that avoided all the small towns along the banks of the river. This really reminded me of the Nile where just a kilometre or two from the lush green banks of the river you were in wide open desert. I pulled into Ouarzazate (from the Berber meaning No (Ouar) noise (zazate)) and rode by the Kasbah de Taourirt before checking into the most spectacular ibis hotel. Still the same basic rooms on the inside as any other ibis but matching the local architecture on the outside. I walked back to the kasbah to have a look. A guide offered his services, but I initially declined. He persisted and it was worth the investment to hear the stories to bring the building to life. Mustafa was really involved in the film industry here so had lots of stories of that too. Ouarzazate was the scene for many films, ranging from Lawrence of Arabia to Gladiator. The kasbah was heavily damaged in the 2023 earthquake that shook the region, so half the building was closed and repairs were ongoing. Audrey and I had planned to come Ouarzazate in February 2003 but it was still too cold (below zero at night) and we skipped it so I am really glad I was finally able to make it here.

Wow, the Dadès Gorge road from the restaurant at the top


Time for a tea and enjoy the view

 

Going back down the Dadès river the next day and passing by the kasbah again




Old buildings dissolve like a sugar cube in a glass of Moroccan tea


Traffic jam






What's that?


Ouarzazate's solar array can be seen from kilometres away. It uses molten salt to store the energy to provide electricity at night.


The Kasbah de Taourirt catches my attention as I ride into Ouarzazate


This is an ibis hotel?


Love the old Renault 4


The sign explains the restoration of the kasbah after the 2023 earthquake

 

The roof/ceiling is made with tamarind, palm and bamboo




The guide has some photography skills




Looking up the Dra'a Valley, a 1200 kilometre caravan route from the Sahara to Marrakesh


Restoration work in progress


The "plaster" is super smooth to the touch. Originally made with eggs, soap and gypsum.




The other half of the kasbah is inaccessible during restoration work


Kasbah de Taourirt in Ouarzazate




Goodnight from Ouarzazate

Thursday 2 to 3 October – Ouarzazate to Agadir and Tan-Tan Plage

Leaving Ouarzazate I first rode to Aït Benhaddou, an historic town of earthen clay on the caravan route to Marrakesh. It has been a fortified village since the 11th century and on the UNESCO list since 1987. Being only 35 kilometres from Ouarzazate it was also part of the bustling film industry in the area. It was easy riding to Agadir but wow, has this place changed since Audrey and I camped here for a month in 2003. I stayed in a fancy hotel in the tourist zone, a cluster of fancy hotels coming back from the beach. It doesn’t feel like Morocco at all. I could be in Majorca. This is as far south as Audrey and I came, so now it will be all new as I ride to Dakar. Here is the link to the Morocco chapter of the website back in 2003: Chapter 14 Morocco  Friday I had to ride about 30 kilometres to get out of the metropolitan area traffic but then, to my surprise, it was a four-lane divided highway all the way to Tan-Tan. The best part of the ride was coming to a road sign showing 2353 kilometres to Dakar!

You may be wondering why I am rushing through Morocco (and Spain before this). There are two reasons, one is that I am focussed on getting to Dakar and would prefer to have some time in hand in case anything goes awry. The second reason is that Audrey and I have visited so many places before (like Fez and Meknes and Marrakesh) so I am hesitant to come to a place with expectations that will be dashed. Let’s face it, I can’t possibly improve on any memory that Audrey and I did together.

Roundabout entering Ouarzazate showcasing its rich movie making history






The old fortified town of Aït Benhaddou


Again, the old buildings dissolve like a sugar cube in a Moroccan tea


Long stretches of open desert






The Instagram photo


The reality


Stop for lunch


The area is famous for its safron so safron rice and vegetables it is


Market day!


Leaving the market town


The might have gone a bit overboard with the shopping at the market




On the way to Agadir


Staying at the Dominium Hotel in the Tourist Zone of Agadir


Good morning Agadir! Not quite the same as waking up in a tent in 2003.


30 kilometres of city to get out of 


I don't speak or read French but I am pretty sure this says "No Speeding on Tuesdays"


The first road sign with Dakar on it!




6,541 km done, 2,353 to go!


The new expressway doesn't have much in the way of gas stations or restaurants so this truck stop is the lunch stop


No English or French and no menu. I'll have what they're having!


Four-lane divided highway all the way




These guys weren't really close to the sign but they probably can't read


Tan-Tan


Check in at the Sahara Beach


Beach time!

Saturday 4 to 6 October – Tan-Tan Plage to Bir Gadouz

Well that was a lot of desert riding over the last three days. I left Tan-Tan Plage on Saturday, October 4 on the same four-lane divided highway I had been on since leaving Agadir. The highway was relatively new though and the GPS would sometimes show me riding beside the road and recalculate. The wind really started to pick up, but fortunately it was from the north so a good tailwind. Over lunch (mint tea and a packaged cupcake) I had a look at the weather app and it looks like the wind will be like this for a while. I crossed into the disputed territory of Western (Moroccan) Sahara at the small town of Tah. It was a non-event though as there wasn’t even an ordinary police checkpoint. No one to check my map. Laâyoune seemed like a real oasis, with palm-lined streets and fountains in the roundabouts. Sunday was a long ride of over 500 km to Dakhla, so I got an early start, expecting the expressway to end. It did at El Marsa but the two-lane road was in excellent condition and didn’t reduce my speed any so I arrived in Dakhla at 3:00. There was a lot of construction in Dakhla and other communities I passed through, a real building boom, but not many people to bring them alive. A little strange. Lots of kite surfers taking advantage of the brisk wind and a few exclusive resorts at the north end of the bay seem to be trying to attract more tourists to Dakhla. On Monday the tailwind seemed to be even more consistent and stronger so the ride through desert was easy. I even saw a range of 800 km on a tank of fuel. Seeing another motorcyclist northbound had me dreading the ride back north though. Bir Gandouz is a small desert outpost an hour’s ride from the Mauritanian border. I rode into town looking for the Fyndy Hotel but didn’t see it, so I stopped and checked Google Maps to find I had passed it already. The hotel has nice clean rooms though and I spent the rest of the afternoon prepping for the upcoming border crossing.

Heading towards Laayoune


Old road to the right


The GPS thinks I am riding in the desert


The old highway again


Riding along the ocean is nice and cool (25C)


Break with mint tea and packaged cupcakes


Checking the weather app and it will be windy like this for the forseeable future


Huge wind farms take advantage


Tah is at the border with Western Sahara


Lots of camel warning signs but no camels


Fancy entrance (and police checkpoint) to enter Laayoune


Laayoune is on a lagoon




Snack and supper at the Cafe Merci


Didn't go to the big chain coffee shop, support local business!


Leaving Laayoune the road goes west so there is a strong crosswind and drifting sand


Finally!


Hello!


The coast of Western Sahara. Literally the start of the Sahara Desert


Lunch of tea and tajine


Will the sugar cube even fit in the glass?


Approaching Dakhla at the north end of the bay




Lots and lots of construction, building new subdivisions


Kite surfers enjoying the wind


Heading east from Dakhla the crosswind is brutal


Crossing the Tropic of Cancer


Pity the poor rider heading north into the wind




When the road deviates from the straight south there is drifting sand


Always be prepared! No services for 200 km and need a break




Tailwind means amazing fuel economy, range of almost 800 km


The Fyndy Hotel is tough to find without signs


Secure parking at the Fyndy Hotel just outside Bir Gandouz